Why Composting Matters

• Reduces waste: Diverts up to 30% of household waste from landfills.
• Lowers emissions: Cuts methane from decomposing organics in landfills.
• Feeds your soil: Adds organic matter that improves structure, water-holding, and nutrient availability.
• Saves money: Less need for fertilizers, mulches, and bagged soil amendments.

Composting Basics: How It Works

Composting is accelerated decomposition managed by microbes. Give them the right balance of carbon (“browns”), nitrogen (“greens”), water, and air, plus enough volume for heat, and they’ll convert scraps into a dark, crumbly soil amendment.

• Carbon to Nitrogen (C:N) ratio: Aim for about 25–30:1. Practically, mix 2–3 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume.
• Moisture: Keep contents as damp as a wrung-out sponge—moist, not soggy.
• Air: Oxygen fuels aerobic microbes; provide ventilation and turn periodically.
• Volume: “Hot” composting is easiest at about 3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft (90 x 90 x 90 cm).
• Temperature: Active piles often warm to 110–150°F (43–65°C). If it’s cold, add greens, moisture, or volume; if too hot, add browns and turn.

Choose a DIY Bin Design

Pick a design based on space, budget, and how much material you generate.

1) Pallet Stationary Bin (Backyard Workhorse)

• Cost: Low to free (upcycled pallets)
• Capacity: Large (great for leaves and garden trimmings)
• Pros: Breathable, scalable (single, double, or triple bays)
• Cons: Needs outdoor space; requires rodent-proofing if attracting pests is a concern

2) Plastic Tote Bin (Balcony/Slim Budget)

• Cost: Low (one or two heavy-duty totes)
• Capacity: Small to medium
• Pros: Compact, weather-resistant, easy to move
• Cons: Needs drilled ventilation; may require leachate tray and regular fluffing

3) Wire-Mesh Cylinder (Quick Build)

• Cost: Low (hardware cloth/welded wire)
• Capacity: Medium to large
• Pros: Very breathable, fast to assemble, good for leaves
• Cons: Can dry out quickly; add liner for moisture/brown retention

Materials and Tools

For a Pallet Bin

• 4 standard pallets (heat-treated, marked “HT”)
• Exterior screws or heavy-duty zip ties
• Corner stakes (2x2s) or metal T-posts
• Hardware cloth (optional, 1/4 inch) for rodent-proofing
• Hinges and latch (optional for a front door)
• Tools: drill/driver, tin snips (if using mesh), measuring tape

For a Plastic Tote Bin

• 1–2 opaque heavy-duty totes with lids (18–32 gal / 70–120 L)
• 1 shallow tray or second tote to catch drips (optional)
• Blocks/bricks to elevate
• Tools: 1/8–1/4 inch drill bits, drill, marker

For a Wire-Mesh Cylinder

• 10–12 ft (3–3.6 m) of 3–4 ft tall hardware cloth or welded wire
• Simple wire ties or zip ties
• Ground staples or stakes for anchoring
• Optional: cardboard or burlap liner to retain fines and moisture
• Tools: tin snips, pliers, gloves

Build Instructions

Pallet Bin: Step-by-Step

1. Site prep: Choose a level, well-drained spot with partial sun. Bare soil is ideal to invite worms and microbes.
2. Set the walls: Stand three pallets upright to form a U. Secure corners to stakes or screw pallets together.
3. Front access: Use a fourth pallet as a removable front or cut boards to create a hinged drop-down door.
4. Rodent-proofing (optional): Line the inside with 1/4-inch hardware cloth, including the bottom. Secure with staples/screws and washers.
5. Roof (optional): Add a simple hinged lid or place a breathable cover (old carpet, burlap) to retain moisture.

Plastic Tote Bin: Step-by-Step

1. Drill ventilation: Make 1/4-inch holes around the upper sides every 2–3 inches. Drill 1/8–1/4-inch holes in the lid and a few in the base for drainage.
2. Elevate: Place the tote on blocks over a drip tray for airflow and to catch excess moisture.
3. Start bedding: Add a 3–4 inch layer of browns (shredded cardboard/leaves). Moisten lightly.
4. Load materials: Add alternating layers of greens and browns. Keep the lid on to retain moisture and exclude pests.

Wire-Mesh Cylinder: Step-by-Step

1. Shape the cylinder: Form a 3–4 ft diameter circle and fasten ends with wire ties.
2. Anchor: Place directly on soil and stake to prevent tipping. Line with cardboard/burlap if desired.
3. Fill: Alternate browns and greens. Cap each fresh addition with a thin layer of browns to minimize odors and flies.

Start and Maintain Your Compost

Layering and Moisture

• Begin with a coarse brown layer (twigs or wood chips) for airflow.
• Add 2–3 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume. Chop material to 1–2 inches for faster breakdown.
• Moisten as you build until the pile feels like a wrung-out sponge.

Routine Care

• Cap food scraps with browns after each addition to deter pests.
• Turn every 1–2 weeks for hot composting; monthly for slower, low-effort composting.
• Adjust moisture: If dry, add water or wetter greens; if soggy, add dry browns and turn.
• Size matters: Keep the active core at least 3 ft on each side for heat. Combine small batches if needed.

Timeline

• Hot composting (active turning): 6–12 weeks to finished compost.
• Passive composting: 6–12 months, depending on climate and materials.

Troubleshooting

• Bad odors (rotten/anaerobic): Too wet or too many greens. Add dry browns, fluff/turn, improve drainage.
• Ammonia smell: Too nitrogen-rich. Add browns (dry leaves, shredded cardboard) and turn.
• Flies/gnats: Cover new scraps with browns; bury food 6 inches deep; keep bin closed.
• Rodents: Avoid meat/dairy; use 1/4-inch hardware cloth on sides and bottom; keep lids tight; clean spills.
• Pile not heating: Increase greens, moisture, and volume; chop materials; insulate with a cover.
• Too dry: Water evenly with a watering can; add moist greens; cover to reduce evaporation.

What to Compost and What to Avoid

Good to Compost

• Fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds/filters, tea leaves
• Dry leaves, straw, shredded paper/cardboard (no glossy/colored inks if possible)
• Eggshells (crushed), nut shells (crushed), yard trimmings (disease-free)
• Herbivore manure (e.g., rabbit, goat, horse; well-aged is best)

Avoid or Use with Caution

• Meat, fish, dairy, oily foods (attract pests and cause odors in simple bins)
• Weeds with mature seeds or invasive roots (can spread if compost doesn’t get hot)
• Diseased plants (risk reintroducing pathogens)
• Pet waste from carnivores (pathogens)
• Coal/charcoal ash, treated/painted wood, glossy paper
• Grass/hay exposed to persistent herbicides (e.g., clopyralid, picloram) that can damage gardens

Harvesting and Using Finished Compost

• Signs it’s ready: Dark, crumbly, earthy smell, original materials mostly unrecognizable.
• Curing: Let the finished compost rest 2–4 weeks for stability before heavy use.
• Screening (optional): Make a simple 1/2-inch mesh frame to sift out sticks and return them to the next batch.
• How to use:
  • Garden beds: 1–2 inches on top, gently mixed into the top 4 inches.
  • Mulch: 1 inch under a coarser mulch to retain moisture.
  • Potting mix: Up to 20–30% by volume mixed with inert media (coir/perlite/bark).
  • Lawn topdressing: 1/4 inch brushed into the turf.

Small-Space and Indoor Options

Compact Tote System

• Use two totes: one with holes nested above an intact tote to catch drips.
• Feed small amounts weekly, keep a stash of dry browns to cover scraps.

Vermicomposting (Worm Bin)

• Use red wigglers (Eisenia fetida), not earthworms from the garden.
• Bin: Opaque tote with air holes; bedding of moist shredded paper/cardboard and a handful of finished compost.
• Feed lightly (fruit/veg scraps) and cover with bedding; avoid meat/dairy/oily foods.
• Keep 55–77°F (13–25°C). Harvest castings in 2–4 months.

Cold-Climate and All-Season Tips

• Insulate: Surround bin with straw bales or leaves; use a breathable cover.
• Scale up: Larger piles hold heat better in winter.
• Stockpile browns in autumn to balance wet winter greens.
• Keep feeding: Even if freezing slows microbes, spring thaw will restart activity.

Upgrades and Variations

• Two- or three-bin system: One active, one maturing, one for storage of browns.
• Tumbler add-on: Faster aeration; still cap fresh scraps with browns and monitor moisture.
• Biochar: Mix 5–10% by volume to enhance structure and nutrient retention.
• Aeration pipes: Perforated PVC or sticks layered vertically to improve airflow in large piles.

Safety and Cleanliness

• Wear gloves when handling raw compost; wash hands afterward.
• Keep paths tidy; secure lids; clean up any spills to avoid attracting pests.
• If you have respiratory sensitivities, avoid breathing dust from dry compost—lightly moisten before turning.

Quick Starter Recipes

• Kitchen + Leaves: 1 bucket of mixed kitchen scraps + 2–3 buckets shredded dry leaves; mix and moisten.
• Grass + Cardboard: 1 bucket fresh grass clippings + 2 buckets shredded cardboard; add a handful of soil or finished compost as inoculant.
• Coffee Boost: 1 bucket coffee grounds + 2 buckets leaves + a handful of wood chips to increase porosity.

FAQ

How long until I get compost? With active turning and good balance, 6–12 weeks. Passive systems can take several months.

Will it smell? A healthy bin smells earthy. Bad odors signal too much nitrogen or water—add browns and aerate.

Can I compost citrus, onions, or bread? In moderation, yes. Bury and cover well. Large amounts may slow the process or attract pests.

Can I compost weeds? Young weeds are fine. Avoid seed heads or invasive roots unless your pile reliably gets hot.

What about “compost tea” from the tote? Leachate from a simple tote isn’t true compost tea; apply to soil rather than leaves, or dilute and discard if foul-smelling.