Create texture, color, and warmth for your walls with a handmade woven wall hanging. This guide walks you through tools, materials, techniques, and a step-by-step project so you can weave with confidence—no prior experience needed.
What You’ll Need
Tools
Loom (frame, cardboard, or tabletop loom)
Weaving needle or tapestry needle (large eye)
Shuttle or a simple stick for wrapping weft (optional)
Comb, fork, or beater for packing rows
Sharp scissors
Measuring tape or ruler
Masking tape or painter’s tape (for warping and holding ends)
Hanging rod (wooden dowel, branch, copper pipe)
Spray bottle with water or steamer (optional for blocking)
Materials
Warp thread: sturdy cotton string or cotton cord (2–3 mm for beginners)
Weft yarns: a mix of textures (wool roving, worsted wool, cotton, chunky acrylic, ribbon, or fabric strips)
Optional: beads, feathers, or hand-spun additions for embellishment
Hanging cord or twine
Tip: Beginners find it easier to work with chunky weft yarns and a slightly looser warp spacing (about 4–6 warp ends per inch).
Planning Your Design
Before you warp your loom, sketch a simple plan. Think about size, color palette, and texture. Choose 2–4 colors to start, then add accent textures like roving or tassels.
Consider:
Size: 8–12 inches wide is a great beginner width.
Palette: Pick a dominant color, a neutral, and 1–2 accents.
Texture: Combine smooth yarns (cotton, worsted) with fluffy or bulky yarns (roving, boucle).
Style: Boho fringe, modern color blocks, or organic shapes.
Choosing or Building a Loom
Options
Frame loom: A wooden frame with notches or nails along the top and bottom bars.
Picture frame loom: Repurpose a wood frame and add evenly spaced nails across the top and bottom.
Cardboard loom: Cut notches every 0.5–1 inch along two opposite edges of sturdy cardboard.
Key Terms
Warp: Vertical threads stretched on the loom.
Weft: Yarn woven horizontally over and under the warp.
Shed: The space created when warp threads separate to pass the weft through.
Beat: The action of packing down weft rows using a comb or fork.
Warping Tips
Keep warp tension firm and even—not too tight or the frame may bow.
For 10 inches of weaving width, plan for 40–60 warp ends (4–6 ends per inch).
Tape loose warp tails to the back of the frame while you work.
Core Weaving Techniques
1) Plain Weave (Tabby)
Pass the weft over one warp, under the next, repeating across.
On the return row, alternate the pattern (under where you went over, and vice versa).
Beat gently: pack enough to sit snugly, but avoid compressing into a stiff fabric.
2) Rya Knots (Fringe)
Cut even lengths of yarn for tassels.
Lay strands across two adjacent warp threads.
Bring the ends behind the warps and up through the middle loop to cinch tight.
Repeat across, then trim to desired length.
3) Soumak (Braided Outline)
From the back, bring weft to the front between two warps.
Wrap the weft around one or two warps moving left to right, always in the same direction.
Beat lightly; creates a rope-like line great for borders and shape outlines.
4) Twining (Stabilizing Edge)
Use two weft strands. Cross them between each warp thread.
Alternate which strand goes in front to create a twisted effect.
Ideal at the start or end of a piece to lock edges.
5) Loops and Pile
Weave a row, then form loops with your finger or a dowel as you place the weft.
Beat gently to hold loops; remove the dowel if used.
6) Clasped Weft (Color Joins)
Use two weft yarns from opposite sides.
Hook them together around each other at the meeting point.
Pull to adjust where the colors meet; great for diagonal lines and organic shapes.
7) Hemstitch (Securing the Bottom/Top)
Thread a needle with a long tail after a few rows of plain weave.
Scoop under 2–3 warps and back through the last weft row.
Repeat across to create a tidy, secure edge.
Step-by-Step Beginner Project
Approximate finished size: 10 inches wide x 16 inches long (not including fringe). Time: 2–4 hours.
1) Warp the Loom
Tie warp thread to the bottom left notch or nail.
Wrap up to the top notch, across the frame, and back down, creating evenly spaced vertical warps.
Tie off at the bottom right. Check tension: firm and even.
2) Stabilize the Base
Weave 2–4 rows of plain weave with a strong yarn.
Optional: Work a row of twining or a hemstitch to lock the bottom.
3) Add a Fringe Row (Rya)
Prepare tassels about 8–12 inches long.
Tie Rya knots across the width for a dense fringe.
Weave 2–3 rows of plain weave to secure above the fringe.
4) Build the Body
Work sections of plain weave in color blocks: 1–2 inches per color.
Insert a soumak row between blocks for visual separation.
Add a looped row or a band of bulky roving for texture.
5) Shape and Interest
Try a triangular peak: weave partial rows that step inwards, then fill the sides.
Or use clasped weft to create a diagonal meeting of two colors.
6) Keep Edges Clean
Leave a small “bubble” of slack in the weft before beating to prevent hourglass edges.
Beat lightly and consistently; do not pull too tight at the selvedges.
7) Top Edge and Prep for Removal
Finish with 3–5 rows of plain weave or a twining row.
Work a hemstitch along the top to secure.
Finishing and Hanging
Removing from the Loom
Cut warp loops from the top bar, leaving 3–4 inches.
Slip each pair of warp ends over your hanging rod (dowel/branch/pipe) and tie a simple lark’s head knot or square knot to secure.
Repeat across the width. For the bottom, tie neighboring warp ends into overhand knots or weave them back into the piece.
Blocking and Tidying
Lightly mist with water and gently coax edges straight; let dry flat.
Trim fringe evenly or leave organic for a boho look.
Weave in any visible tails with a tapestry needle.
Hanging
Tie twine at both ends of the rod and hang on a nail or hook.
For a minimalist look, rest the rod on two small wall brackets.
Design Ideas and Variations
Modern Minimal: Neutral base with one bold soumak line.
Boho Texture: Layers of rya fringe, loops, and roving.
Color Blocks: Three horizontal bands with contrasting stitches between.
Ombre Fade: Blend two yarns together, gradually swapping one for the other.
Organic Shapes: Clasped weft curves and asymmetrical silhouette.
Natural Element: Hang from a driftwood branch for rustic charm.
Troubleshooting
Hourglass Edges: Add weft slack, reduce tension at edges, beat more gently.
Wavy Top/Bottom: Use hemstitch or twining; keep warp tension even.
Gapping Between Sections: Add a soumak outline or weave partial rows to fill gaps.
Warp Showing Too Much: Use a thicker weft or pack rows a bit more firmly.
Slanted Rows: Count warps, alternate correctly, and check your beat for consistency.
Care and Maintenance
Dust gently with a soft brush or a cool hairdryer on low.
Avoid direct sunlight to reduce fading.
Spot-clean with mild soap and cold water; avoid soaking if using mixed fibers.
Steam lightly to refresh shape; do not press with a hot iron.
Eco and Budget Tips
Upcycle: Use t-shirt yarn, fabric strips, or leftover knitting yarns.
Thrift: Source yarn bundles and rods at secondhand shops.
Natural Fibers: Choose wool, cotton, linen, or jute for a low-impact piece.
DIY Loom: Cardboard or picture-frame looms are inexpensive and effective.
Mini Glossary
Warp
Vertical threads stretched on the loom.
Weft
Horizontal yarn woven through the warp.
Shed
Space created for the weft to pass through.
Beat
The act of packing down rows for even coverage.
Selvedge
The left and right edges of the weaving.
Hemstitch
A finishing stitch that secures weft to warp ends.
Quick Checklist
Choose loom style and size
Pick palette and textures (2–4 colors + one texture)
Warp evenly with firm, not tight, tension
Start with base rows and secure with hemstitch or twining
Add fringe, texture bands, and color blocks
Keep edges straight with gentle beat and weft slack
Finish top with hemstitch, mount on a rod, and block
