Why Make Your Own Hammock?

DIY hammocks are affordable, adaptable, and rewarding to build. You can tailor dimensions for your height, select breathable or rugged fabrics for your climate, and choose suspension hardware that suits your style. Whether it’s for a shady backyard nap or a lightweight camping setup, you’ll end up with a relaxation spot you’re proud of.

Choose Your Hammock Style

• Gathered-End Fabric Hammock: A single rectangle of fabric with ends bunched and suspended. Cozy, simple, and beginner-friendly.
• Rope/Macramé Hammock: Open-weave cord hammock. Classic look, great airflow, slightly more time-intensive.
• Spreader-Bar Hammock (optional): Uses wooden bars to hold the hammock open. More “flat bed” feel and photogenic, but less stable and not as good for diagonal lounging.

This guide focuses on the gathered-end fabric hammock (fast, comfy) with an optional section for a simple rope version.

Materials

For a Fabric Hammock (gathered ends)

• Fabric, 10–11 ft (3–3.35 m) long by 58–64 in (147–163 cm) wide
  • Outdoor lightweight: 1.6 oz ripstop nylon, parachute nylon, or polyester taffeta (quick-dry, strong)
  • Indoor/heavy-duty: cotton canvas or duck cloth (cozy, heavier, slower to dry)
• Polyester thread (UV-resistant; size Tex 40–70 recommended)
• Two continuous loops or strong cord for end-gathering (e.g., 7/64 in [2.8 mm] UHMWPE like Amsteel)
• Suspension:
  • Two tree straps/webbing (1–2 in wide polyester, each 6–12 ft long, rated 1,000+ lb / 4.5+ kN)
  • Optional: whoopie slings or adjustable daisy-chain straps
  • Two climbing-rated carabiners (20 kN+), or rated soft shackles
• Optional: Bug net, ridgeline cord (7–10 ft), stuff sack

For a Rope/Macramé Hammock

• Polyester cord 3–5 mm (about 650–1,000 ft depending on span and pattern)
• Two hardwood spreader bars (optional), about 30–42 in wide, with drilled holes
• Two heavy-duty end rings or loops

Tip: Polyester is preferred over nylon for straps and rope outdoors because it stretches less when loaded and when wet.

Tools

• Scissors or rotary cutter and cutting mat
• Measuring tape, fabric marker or chalk, pins or clips
• Sewing machine (straight stitch) and universal needle (90/14 or 100/16)
• Lighter for melting synthetic cord ends (use care)
• Optional: Stud finder and drill for indoor mounting; small hand saw if making spreader bars

Plan Your Size and Hang

• Length: Aim for a hammock body of 10–11 ft. Taller users (6 ft/183 cm+) often prefer 11 ft for a flatter, diagonal lay.
• Width: 58–64 in wide gives room to lie diagonally, which flattens your body position and reduces calf pressure.
• Capacity: Choose materials and hardware rated well above your combined load (person + gear). Climbing-rated carabiners and high-strength straps are best.
• Hang Angle: Target 25–30 degrees from horizontal. A structural ridgeline set at ~83% of hammock body length helps keep a consistent sag.

Build a Gathered-End Fabric Hammock

Step 1: Cut and Prepare the Fabric

1. Cut a rectangle: 10–11 ft long by full fabric width (typically 58–64 in).
2. Hem the long sides to prevent fraying:
   • Fold 1/2 in (12 mm) to the wrong side, press, then fold again 1/2 in. Stitch near inner fold with a straight stitch.
   • Use a 3 mm stitch length and backstitch at the start/end.

Step 2: Create End Channels (or Get Ready to Whip)

You have two common options for finishing the ends:

• End Channels: Fold 1.5–2 in (38–50 mm) of the short ends to the wrong side twice and stitch two parallel seams across the width, creating a reinforced channel. Avoid stitching too close to the edge; you want a strong tunnel for the cord/continuous loop.
• Whipped Ends: Gather the fabric end like an accordion, forming a neat bunch, then bind it tightly with strong cord below the tip. This method is simple and strong without sewing a channel.

Step 3: Add Continuous Loops or Cord

1. If using channels: Thread a continuous loop or strong cord through each channel and bring both ends out. Larks-head the loop onto itself, capturing the fabric; or tie a secure knot if using cord.
2. If whipping: Wrap the gathered end with multiple tight turns of cord and finish with a secure knot (for example, multiple half hitches or a constrictor knot). Add a continuous loop just below the whipping via a larks head.

Step 4: Add a Structural Ridgeline (Optional but Handy)

Cut a length of low-stretch cord equal to about 83% of the hammock body length (for an 11 ft hammock, ~109 in or 277 cm). Connect it between the two continuous loops. This keeps your sag consistent and makes setup easier.

Step 5: Suspension Setup

• Tree straps + carabiners: Wrap straps around anchor points (trees, posts), clip a carabiner to the strap loop, and connect to your hammock’s continuous loop.
• Whoopie slings: Connect whoopies to your continuous loops and to tree straps for fine adjustability.
• Daisy-chain straps: Clip carabiners into different sewn loops to adjust length easily.

Always use wide straps on trees to prevent bark damage. Avoid thin ropes directly on trunks.

Step 6: First Hang and Test

1. Set anchors about 12–18 ft (3.6–5.5 m) apart if possible. Aim for a 25–30 degree hang angle.
2. Start low. Position the lowest point of the hammock around chair height (16–20 in / 40–50 cm) so your feet can touch the ground.
3. Gently load the hammock: sit, shift weight, then lie back. If it creaks, sags excessively, or fabric stitches pull, stop and check anchors, knots, and seams.

Alternative: Simple Rope/Macramé Hammock (Overview)

This method requires more time but produces a breezy, classic hammock.

1. Prepare spreader bars (optional): Cut two hardwood bars 30–42 in wide. Drill evenly spaced holes (about 1–1.25 in apart) across the length, ensuring symmetry left to right.
2. Create end rings: Use heavy-duty rings or form strong rope eyes with a secure eye splice or multiple wraps and knots.
3. Weave the body: Anchor your end rings, then run polyester cords back and forth through the spreader bar holes, tying square knots or sheet bends to neighboring strands to form a diamond mesh. Maintain even tension, and mirror your pattern on both sides for symmetry.
4. Finish and dress the knots: Trim and melt synthetic rope ends as needed (work carefully and avoid flames touching skin). Dress all knots tightly and evenly to prevent weak points.

Because open-weave hammocks can concentrate pressure, consider adding a fabric or pad layer for comfort.

Hanging Your Hammock Safely

Outdoors

• Choose healthy trees at least 6–8 in (15–20 cm) in diameter, spaced 12–18 ft apart.
• Wrap straps at chest height as a starting point; adjust to achieve a 25–30 degree hang angle.
• Never use thin cord directly on trees; use 1–2 in wide polyester straps to protect bark.

Indoors

• Use heavy-duty hardware rated for human loads, anchored into solid structural members (wall studs or ceiling joists), not drywall alone.
• Locate studs with a stud finder and verify with a small test pilot hole if needed.
• Mount anchors at a height and distance that will yield the same 25–30 degree hang. If unsure about structure or hardware, consult a qualified professional.

Rule of thumb: never hang higher than you are willing to fall. Keep the lowest point around chair height and clear the area beneath.

Useful Knots and Connections

• Lark’s Head (Cow Hitch): For attaching a continuous loop to fabric ends or to hardware.
• Bowline: Forms a fixed loop that’s easy to untie after loading.
• Double Fisherman’s: For joining two cords securely.
• Marlinspike Hitch: Handy with toggles for adjustable setups on tree straps.

Practice knots with scrap rope first. Dress knots cleanly and check them under light load before full use.

Comfort Tuning

• Lie diagonally across the fabric to flatten your body position.
• Add a ridgeline to preserve consistent sag between different anchor distances.
• Use a small pillow or rolled towel under knees if you feel knee hyperextension.
• In cool weather, use an underquilt or closed-cell foam pad; air moving below you can cause “cold butt syndrome.”

Safety Considerations

• Inspect fabric, seams, straps, and carabiners before each use. Look for frays, cuts, bent gates, or popped stitches.
• Use only rated hardware (climbing-rated carabiners, strong webbing). Avoid hardware store “decorative” carabiners.
• Keep clear space under the hammock—no rocks, sharp edges, or hard objects.
• Supervise children and avoid swinging aggressively. Pets’ claws can damage lightweight fabrics.
• Avoid hanging over water if you’re not prepared to get wet; wet nylon can stretch and change sag.

Care and Maintenance

• Cleaning: Most synthetic fabric hammocks can be hand washed with mild soap and rinsed thoroughly. Air dry out of direct, harsh sun to prolong life.
• Storage: Store dry in a breathable bag. Avoid long-term UV exposure when not in use.
• Repairs: Small holes can be patched with ripstop repair tape or sewn patches; retire fabric if holes are near load-bearing seams.
• Hardware: Rinse off salt/sand, check for corrosion, and lubricate carabiner gates lightly if needed.

Troubleshooting

• Back or calf pressure: Increase sag (lower strap height or lengthen suspension) and lie more diagonally.
• Shoulder squeeze: Use a wider fabric, more sag, or verify ridgeline length (~83% of hammock length).
• Fabric bunching at ends: Re-whip ends or redistribute folds evenly before binding.
• Hammock too tippy: Remove spreader bars (if used) or increase sag. Gathered-end hammocks without spreaders are usually more stable.
• Stretch/sag over time: Switch to polyester straps and low-stretch suspension cord. Nylon can lengthen when wet.

Upgrades and Variations

• Bug Net: Add an integrated zippered net or a separate “fronkey” style net that drapes around the hammock.
• Weather Protection: Pitch a tarp above using the ridgeline; stake out with guylines.
• Pockets and Organizer: Sew a small side pocket or hang a ridgeline organizer for phone, book, and headlamp.
• Double Layer: Sew two fabric bodies together at the sides to create a pad sleeve and add strength.
• Stuff Sack: Make a bishop bag (two-ended) for fast deployment: one end stays connected to the suspension while you deploy the rest.

Time and Cost Estimate

• Fabric hammock: 1.5–3 hours build time once you have materials. Cost varies by fabric and hardware but often $35–$120.
• Rope hammock: 4–10 hours depending on weave complexity. Cost depends on cord length and spreader bar materials.

Environmental Tips

• Use tree-friendly straps at least 1 in wide; 2 in is even better for soft bark species.
• Avoid fragile trees and sensitive vegetation. Move sites if you see bark compression.
• Pack out all scraps and thread trimmings. Choose durable gear to reduce waste.

FAQ

Can I make a hammock without a sewing machine? Yes. Use a no-sew gathered-end method by whipping the ends tightly. Choose fabric that doesn’t fray easily or fold the ends multiple times before whipping.

Is paracord okay for suspension? Standard 550 paracord is not ideal; it stretches and can fail under dynamic loads. Use polyester webbing and UHMWPE cords (e.g., Amsteel) designed for high loads.

How do I wash it? Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Rinse thoroughly and air dry shaded. Avoid fabric softener; it can affect water repellency on technical fabrics.

What temperature is comfortable? Even at 65–70°F (18–21°C), airflow under you can feel chilly. Use an underquilt or pad when nights are cool.

Can kids use it? Yes, with supervision. Hang low, keep clear space underneath, and inspect gear before use.

Relax and Enjoy

With a few yards of fabric, solid stitching, and safe suspension, you can build a hammock that’s tailored to your comfort and your space. Start with a simple gathered-end design, dial in the hang angle, and add accessories as you go. Soon you’ll have a favorite spot for reading, stargazing, or effortless afternoon naps.